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This is a collection of the most frequent questions below - if you don't find the answer you are looking for, please drop us a mail at: info@boosterplug.com



How do you know about these things ?

Jens (the Inventor of the BoosterPlug) is trained in Industrial electronics repair, and has been making electronic solutions on Motorcycles for +10 years.

To illustrate his knowledge on Motorcycle Fuel Injection (Pure Bragging) take a look at the pictures below:

A few years ago he built a fully programmable Fuel Injection ECU circuit board into the original ECU box on a Moto Guzzi – and converted the bike to Closed Loop operation.

The project - including the theoretical basics - was fully described in an article he wrote for a Danish Motorcycle Magazine.

That should probably qualify him to participate in Fuel Injection related discussions :-)


Your language is funny – why is that ?

English is not our native language – We're Scandinavian, located in Denmark.

It's pretty hard to explain complicated technical solutions in a foreign language, but we're doing our very best.

We'll be more than happy to correct any spelling or grammatical errors made on this site – just drop us a mail.

But be warned; Anyone with sarcastic comments on our English writing abilities, will receive a polite mail – In Danish :-)


Do you use the BoosterPlug yourself ?

Of course - The BoosterPlug development project actually started because Jens wanted a proper solution for his own BMW F800S.

The BoosterPlug is permanently installed on all staff bikes.


Why didn't you design the BoosterPlug to use the original AIT Sensor in the Airbox ? The external NTC sensor just seems to add cost and complexity !

The BoosterPlug use the original AIT Sensor in combination with the external NTC Sensor.

The non linear behavior of the NTC resistor sensor is not easy to offset 20 degrees over the entire temperature range, so I had to use a well calculated setup with both sensors and a few other resistors in order to produce a stable offset.

The consistent temperature offset is a very important feature of the BoosterPlug - This is what makes resistor tuning work as it should.


Why does the second NTC sensor have to be on an external cable ?
- It would be a lot easier if it was installed in the module.

The standard AIT sensor and the extra NTC sensor will have to measure the same temperature for the enrichment compensation to work correctly. A small difference is OK, but more than a few degrees difference will gradually minimize the enrichment in mixture we want for improved driveability.

And the location where you install the module will NOT have the same temperature as measured inside the air box. The outside of the airbox is a no-air-flow or low-air-flow place, so it's influenced by engine heat. The temperature here can well be 20 degrees Celsius warmer than inside the air box that will have a constant flow of cool air.

If you still think the temperature will be the same on both sides of the airbox wall, ask yourself this simple question: Why would all motorcycle factories be adding the cost of an AIT sensor installed in the airbox if they could just measure the correct temperature right outside the ECU.

Nope - these guys are not stupid, and the AIT sensor is installed inside the Airbox because it's necessary. And that's why we must move the second NTC sensor out into the airflow


Where should I install the External NTC sensor ?

Route the wire with the NTC resistor to a place where the NTC is not effected by engine or radiator heat and zip-tie it in place.

  • Do not place the external sensor behind Cylinder Heads or Radiator.
  • Install it in a location where the sensor is recieving a reasonable amount of cool air when you ride your bike.

This is important - don't install the sensor under the shielding where it's influenced by the heat from the engine


How long is the NTC Sensor cable ?

The cable is 60 cm long (That's around 24" for the non metric countries), and that seems to fit the vast majority of bikes.

(Some BoosterPlug versions have a very short sensor cable because the original Air Temperature Sensor is placed outside the air filter box - and then the BoosterPlug sensor is already in the right spot and there's no need for the long sensor cable)

If you for some reason wants to place the NTC somewhere else, you can just extend the cable - it's ordinary 2-wire cable.


Can the BoosterPlug hurt my engine ?

No, on the contrary. The BoosterPlug will actually be a benefit for your engine.

Modern engines are running lean and hot due to legal requirements. Adding a little amount of fuel will help your engine run cooler/better/longer.

Please note that if you add a lot of extra fuel, you will wash the oil film from the cylinder walls. This is certainly not good for your engine, and you may see expensive cylinder/piston repair. This is the risk you're taking if you're using a serial resistor without temperature compensation.


What about fuel consumption when I install the BoosterPlug ?

There's no way you can richen up the Air/Fuel Ratio without increasing the fuel consumption - but it's not half as bad as you may think :-)

There are a lot of misunderstandings on this subject, and you will even see professional magazine tests claiming improved mileage after installing a fuel enrichment device. But what they and most people don't know or understand is that fuel consumption is far more influenced by ambient temperature than by installing the BoosterPlug.

Air is more dense in lower temperatures because the air molecules are sticking closer to each other when the temperature drops. One liter/gallon/quart/pint of cold air will contain more air molecules, and the Fuel injection ECU will have to inject more fuel to keep the same Air/Fuel Ratio. So all bikes wil consume more fuel in cold weather, with or without the BoosterPlug installed.

So if you measure your fuel consumption, install the BoosterPlug, and do the next measurement in a lower or higher temperature, you will see either a higher or lower fuel consumption and you will obviously think that the BoosterPlug caused this. But the largest part of this change is actually caused by the shift in ambient temperature.

So if we rule out the temperature effect - what will the BoosterPlug do to my fuel consumption then ?

A very elegant thing about the BoosterPlug solution is that it's only active when you need it - which is in low RPM conditions and during acceleration and engine braking. So the 6% fuel enrichment from the BoosterPlug does NOT mean that your fuel consumption will go up by 6%

Most customers will see the overall fuel consumption go up by 1-2%. A little higher in the city or on the racetrack, a little lower on the open roads, and approaching 0% on long highway runs with a steady speed. On some bikes, the BoosterPlug will allow you to go through town in a higher gear which will make these figures slightly lower.

But 1-2% seems to be be the average figure - a small price to pay for the improvements you will enjoy every minute you ride your bike.


Will the richer mixture destroy my Catalytic Converter, or shorten its expected lifespan ?

No. The Booster Plug will richen the mixturee from aprox. 14,4 : 1 to 13,6 : 1. This is fine for the Catalytic Converter as well as for the engine.

It's correct that very rich mixture can destroy the Catalytic Converter , and that's why you should be careful what kind of tuning module you install on your bike.

Do your homework and buy from someone who actually understands these things.
Feel free to consider if we belong to that group :-)


Does the BoosterPlug work with my aftermarket exhaust and air filter ?

Yes - The use of aftermarket exhaust and free flowing filters means that more air will enter your engine, which will lean out the mixture if you don't richen-up the injected mixture.

This is the situation without the BoosterPlug:

  • Closed loop operation will adjust mixture back to normal when you're maintaining a level speed, so there's no risk of damage to your engine.
  • But when RPM or throttle setting is changed your bike will be running lean, because the time delay in the O2 sensor feedback will make the ECU go temporary Open Loop
  • This will affect the throttle response and rideability of your bike, and you may have a little puffing in the exhaust on engine braking.

So bikes with K&N's and/or after market exhausts certainly benefit from the little extra fuel provided by the BoosterPlug. Your bike will love you for it :-)


Will the BoosterPlug change the ignition timing on my bike ?

No, the modification of the AIT signal does not affect ignition timing.


How do you know that +6% of fuel is the right amount for my bike ?

Partly by experience, partly by knowledge.

All modern bikes must pass the same environmental tests, so they all run leaner than desired for optimum performance.

The ideal Air/Fuel ratio for gasoline powered engines is 14,7 : 1 (14,7 kgs of Air to 1 kg of fuel). In the real world your engine will run very badly end extremely hot at 14,7 : 1. Usually you see values around 14,4:1 on modern stock engines.

14,4 : 1 is a little richer than 14,7, but for performance and rideability you want to see values around 13,6 : 1 (This is for modern engines - older engines seems to like the mixture even richer - down to 13,0 : 1)

This means that if we're running the engine at 14,4:1 and we add another 6% of fuel, the calculation will look like this: 14,4 : (1 + (6 : 100)) = 13,58 : 1

So the math fits nicely, and is backed up by experience - plus 6 percent of extra fuel is what we want to achieve our goal.


Why don't you show the Power improvements of the BoosterPlug in a Dyno graph ?

As all other resistor tuning devices, the BoosterPlug is not about top end horsepower. (The closed loop operation prevents this - and if you seek more flat out power you must bypass the Oxygen sensor in some way)

The BoosterPlug will improve the rideability of your bike (a lot !), but its hard to prove this in a graph, and we decided not to join the "Dyno Graph Pissing Contest".

There's so many possibilities to tweak the Dyno output to make it show whatever you like to see.

Some of the Dyno Graphs you'll find on the internet are pure imagination, and we prefer to keep our product in the real world :-)


Why should I pay this kind of money for a couple of resistors ?

Actually, you dont.....

This is what you get - a solution that is:

  • Plug and Play
  • Waterproof and reliable in “motorcycle conditions”
  • Developed and built by people who know what they are doing. Yep – that's us :-)
  • Known to perform as promised
  • Half the price or less, compared to competitor products.

Consider it like buying software for your computer – you're paying for solutions and functionality, not for the CD-Rom.
Buying a BoosterPlug could well be the best money you ever spend on your bike.


The Power Commander is much more advanced and have so many features – Wouldn't I be better off with that one ?

Well, for the vast majority of bike owners, the BoosterPlug is a better solution. Simple solutions can be brilliant.

The factory's technicians know what they are doing, and the BoosterPlug works with the ECU, not against it. The BoosterPlug will just add the little extra fuel your bikes wants for optimum driveability and performance. The factory guys can't do this due to legal restrictions.

With the Power Commander or equivalent products, you can change almost any setting you can imagine, and most of these products will shut down closed loop operation. This means that you will take full responsibility for the engine mapping, and with so many features to change, it really takes a very experienced guy and a lot of Dyno time to get things right.

Most Power Commanders are never correctly setup, and the simple BoosterPlug will actually outperform 80% of all existing Power Commander installations, because the BoosterPlug is based on the very good factory map, and will just make the air/fuel mixture slightly richer where you need it.

If your bike is a real hardcore racer with sharp camshafts and big bore pistons etc. you may well need the Power Commander. If you're like most owners that ride your standard bike, or just fit other air filters and exhausts, you're better off with the BoosterPlug.



BoosterPlug vs. Power Commander.

We are working with a large number of motorcycle dealers, and one of our long term partners have come up with this excellent and non-technical way to explain the difference between the principles in the BoosterPlug and the Power Commander:

- Imagine that the fuel injection computer on your motorcycle is a robot that is painting a wall.

      - The robot is well made, constructed and programmed by skilled engineers that know what they are doing.

      - It applies the paint on the wall nicely and all robot moves are controlled with high precision.

      - Only issue is that the applied paint layer is a bit thin in some areas.

- The Power Commander will disable the original programming and let you take control of all parameters.

      - The result is often like dropping a grenade in a bucket of paint - You will have plenty of paint everywhere, but the result is neither pretty or desirable!

- The BoosterPlug will cooperate with the original computer and let it stay in charge, but will just make the paint layer a bit thicker where needed.

We obviously like this explanation :-)


Competitor plug-and-play products claim to include microprocessors and the ability to read RPM from a sinusoidal wave in the AIT line ?

Bullshit !!

Our apologies if this word offends you, but it is the correct term to describe this kind of statement.

To measure AIT, the ECU will send out a fixed (and well known) DC voltage through a fixed resistor. The fixed resistor and the NTC resistor will form a voltage divider, and the ECU will know the temperature by measuring the voltage on the rear side of the fixed resistor. See chart below.

The BoosterPlug is a plug and play alternative to a Power Commander

So, there's no AC voltage in the AIT line to form a sinus curve. And even if there were a way to measure RPM here, it would be impossible to use the information, because the ECU will only read the DC voltage and interpret it to a temperature value.

The only way to change the AIT signal is to change the total resistance value.

What's new about the Mk2 module ?

  • Technically, it's the same as the famous Mk1 module - Plug and Play tuning simply doesn't get any better than this :-)
  • The module is now a one piece thermoplastic diecast moulding. Impossible to break, unless you do something really stupid...
  • The module is even smaller than the Mk1, and measures 20 x 20 x 32 mm. Easy to fit anywhere you want.
  • The cables to the connectors are slightly longer to make installation even easier.
  • The Mk2 module was introduced in 2010, so all modules sold in our webshop will be the Mk2 version - no need to worry about receiving the older Mk1 as they have been phased out for years :-)


Will you develop a BoosterPlug for my brand and type of bike ?

Ehhh – maybe. Development work is rather time consuming, so we need to see a market for the finished product to start developing the BoosterPlug for other bikes.

There are some pretty active owner groups on the internet forums and maybe the developing work could be made in cooperation with a forum member group ?

Drop us a mail if you want the BoosterPlug for your bike. We're open for further discussions.